Vaughan Big Date
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Eterna’s Masterpiece
With the Eterna Vaughan Big Date, Eterna has returned to the old-fashioned virtues of watchmaking and produces a watch with an own manufacture calibre. The new Eterna movement provides the function of a unique big date display. In terms of appearance, Eterna remains true to its tradition of elegance and simplicity.
Eterna has a tradition of elegant men’s watches, such as the new Eterna Vaughan Big Date. The Eterna Centenaire of 1956 and the Eterna·Matic 3000 Dato of 1962 were both watches for men of style. In its day, the Eterna calibre 1504 movement used in these watches broke all sales records. The calibre 1504 has now provided the model for a new Eterna movement. A young team of watchmakers and design engineers have developed the new Eterna 3030. The Eterna creators have achieved a world record with their very first attempt. The automatic movement with big date display function is the slimmest in its class.
The cambered big date display
In big date display movements, the date is displayed in large numerals on two separate discs. For the display of the date, one of the discs carries the units, while the other carries the tens. A two-disc system allows the use of larger numerals, thereby enhancing the legibility of the date. In the case of the Eterna 3030, an outer disc carries the unit numbers for every day of the month. A small disc, arranged further inside, carries the four necessary digits for the tens display. The Eterna calibre 3030 shows a convex profile on both sides, in the form of a lens. The two discs of the date display blend seamlessly into the cambered surface of the movement. They are designed, not as a conventional arrangement of two flat and horizontal discs positioned one above the other, but as two cambered rings, which rotate next to each other.
High-speed changeover, high-speed setting
The big date display of the Eterna Vaughan Big Date has a fast-acting calendar function, and will change at midnight within less than one second. In contrast with the majority of conventional movements, the switch mechanism allows both the time and date to be adjusted at any time. The rotational impulse for the tens disc is generated directly by the units disc of the date display. In order to achieve a slim-line movement, the engineers at Eterna have developed a ball bearing-mounted date disc with integral gear toothing. In accordance with conventional practice, the date is adjusted manually using the winding button. Rotating the crown through 360° will adjust the date by two days. Setting the date is both fast and straightforward.
High-tech components
The basic movement is closely modelled on the Eterna Caliber 1504 from the 1960s. However, this model has been thoroughly overhauled by the design engineers. Ease of maintenance and the lifetime of the movement have been significantly enhanced. The movement can be fully dismantled, allowing the replacement of each individual component. A photolithographic process has been used for the production of the main components. This method allows the high-precision creation of complex forms of small dimensions, which are generally responsible for key functions in a watch movement. The photolithographic process delivers components of an extremely hard nickel or nickel-phosphor alloy, which is barely to wear. Movements incorporating components of this type are distinguished by their exceptionally long lifetime. High-technology notwithstanding, the creative and traditional metalworking skills of the watchmaker are well represented. The bridges of the Eterna calibre 3030 are rhodanized and decorated with a combination of “Perlage” and “Colimaçon”. The rotor sparkles with a dazzlingly beautiful “Côtes de Genève” finish.
Slim-line elegance
The brilliantly designed interior of the Eterna Vaughan Big Date is mirrored in its outward appearance. The lens shaped movement is reflected in the cambered dial and the smooth outlines of the case. The fine details, the clear markings and the straight Dauphine hands are all elements of sophisticated design. The Eterna Vaughan Big Date is available in polished stainless steel or polished rose gold. The stainless steel models are white, sunray-brushed dial with black or brown alligator-leather strap or polished stainless steel bracelet; anthracite, sunray-brushed dial with black alligator-leather strap or polished stainless steel bracelet. And the rose gold case models are available in silver or anthracite, sunray-brushed dial with a brown alligator-leather strap.
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